PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS FOR ANIMAL SHOTS

I have been asked often how I get my close up shots of the animals that I photograph, what lens do I use, what settings and most of all how do you get the animal to sit still for you? 

The answers to some of these questions are quite simple and to the other questions there are a few more things involved in getting the shot.  I will try to answer and give a guide for you so that you can glean some useful information if you are a hobbyist or amateur photographer.

Today our topic is how I get the close up shots of the animals.  I am including several items that you might need to know when attempting to photograph a dog, cat, horse or other animal that moves and has a will of its own.  I will try to explain some methods on getting not only macro shots but posed and natural shots with the animals and families.

How do you get the close up shots of the animals?

I use a lot of techniques when photographing animals.  I use a 200 zoom lens so that I can get the macro shots from a distance and with this technique I find that I don’t have to crawl around as much on the floor or outside on wet or dirty surfaces or get too close to a near miss with some animal’s teeth or claws.  Even before I do a shoot I like to sit with the owners and pets to get an idea of how the animal will react to me and to my lens.  If the animal is not responsive then I will probably use the zoom lens to get the close upshots but still remain at a safer distance from the animal.

I can set up a posed shot using my portrait lens and tripod to get all of the animal in or the family posing with the animal I also like to use my standard 50 lens so that I can get in close to the animal to get a full face/body shot or to focus better on the animals eyes.   I also tend to follow the animal around to see what it is up to.  Some of the best shots are when I let the animal do its thing and as long as I am quick with the button I will gets some great shots.  I also like different angles and I use both landscape and portrait to get differing types of shots.  You will most probably find me upside down or on my stomach or back or side taking images and this is quite entertaining for the families.  It also gives a more relaxed air to the shoot and the family’s emotions are usually felt by the animals so that when they are more relaxed the animal also follows suit. 

I find that I am usually pretty dirty and disheveled after an animal photo session because I get very focused on the animal and will sometimes be nose to nose with the animal in the grass or in the dirt as some of my best shots are taken when I am inches from the animal.  I also am very aware of my surroundings and what to use as a background or back drop area to pose an animal.  I like to ensure that there are no obstructions that will take away from the main focus on the animal.  A lot of my shots I use a higher DOF such as a 12 or 13 so that the background is blurred and the animal is the main focal point.  I also play with the settings to get different types of images where shadow may stand out or light falling on an animals head will look like a halo to enhance the image of the animal.  I like to use the great outdoors most of the time when doing shoots because there is so much you can use and play with outside such as the Sun, the surrounding area in a park, a lake, reflection, colors of nature to enhance the animal and so much more.  It is basically a time to play with your settings and take lots of shots to see what you can come up with. 

I also advise the families to bring lots of snacks, treats and toys to get the animal to follow commands or to get a posed, clear shot of the animal sitting, lying down, or anything that the animal has been trained to do.  I do have to sometimes get what I can if an animal is not as trained or has not had obedience classes and that in itself is a totally different type of photography session.  I find that I almost always end up having to let the animal take the lead and I can follow behind and when the animal is resting or sitting I can then take some shots.  Those sessions are where you need to have patience with the animal, the families and yourself.  If you cannot get the animal to cooperate then the best course of action is to reschedule a shoot when the animal may be more willing to sit. 

The one thing that I ensure is that I am giving direction to the family so that they can know what to do with themselves and the animal.  I also ask the families if they have a particular spot where they want a photograph to be taken or if they might have an idea of what exactly they want when we get to the destination.  Most of the time it is a case where we will end up walking and looking for spots to get a really nice shot.

Most families are wonderful and cooperative because they tend to differ to my requests stating that I am the photographer and I would know better than them.  I like this attitude but I also like to find out if they have any ideas they want to use to incorporate into the session such as a specific area, a certain pose they like, if they are wanting action shots, posed shots, natural shots etc… It not only gives me an idea of what I need to take during the session but it involves the families a bit more and they feel part of the photo session and usually end up in the images because frankly they are the family and it is their pet that they want a keepsake for.  I also like to use the members of the family to get a certain pose or to have them stand in a certain spot to gain the attention of their pet.  This helps me to when I am taking the images and it also includes the family during the session.  I will even ask them to stand behind me if the animal is distracted so that they can call the animal’s attention back to what is going on.  This is where the treats and snack come into effect as well as the toys that they have brought along with them.  If the families forget to bring toys or treats try to have a stash with you but make sure before that the family is aware of the brand of treats or even ask them what the animals snack on and go to the store and get some.  You never know what might happen during a session so it is better to be prepared.

I also will show a few choice images on my camera which are taken in RAW format during the session to the family members so that they can see what I am up to and most of the time they get a glimpse of the images they are going to have to choose from.  Most families end up having a great time and the session will usually last 2 hours.  Almost always they are very happy and are usually as dirty as I am but the whole adventure is worth it! 

Most importantly, when shooting dark colored, black coated animals, the time of day is very important when scheduling a session as well, the weather is a factor to consider when shooting.  Sometimes a cloudy day can be more appealing and optimal to shoot a black coated animal because they will stand out more distinctly and details will be more visible in the images.  Consider shadows and trees to use as that will diffuse rays of sun that will take away from the image or make the animal look like a black smear in the photos.  Find patches of green because a dark animal stand out with this color and it is one of the best colors to use on black labs or black cats.  When the sun is setting you can get some wonderful shots of animals sitting near water as the reflection of the light on the water behind an animal tends to add quality and bring out the colors of the animal.  The softer colors of a sky just starting to darken is a perfect time to get these shots and it is usually cooling down so that the animals are not as warm.  Another factor is near the end of the two hours most animals are tired and so movement is not as much and you can really concentrate on getting a good clear image of the animal and have no blurred effect.

I will set up my bookings for approximately two hours after sunrise or two hours prior to sunset.  The reasoning is that a black or dark colored animal will usually look like a blob if you take photos during other times of the day or evening.  I also like to ensure that I have the sun over my left or right shoulder when taking posed, close up shots outside and the subject/animal is in front of me or slightly to the left or right depending on where the sun is.  I can also use the sun and trees or leaves to detract from the rays as a background effect to soften or lighten an image but still maintain the focus on the subject I am photographing. 

And finally when shooting lighter colored animals, use light colored backgrounds, softer tones to let the animal really stand out or blend in depending on your settings.  If you are wanting a dark contrast to really make an image speak then try it out but be aware that the dark will usually overpower the colors of a lighter coated animal.  Using this type of technique is good when you want to shoot black and white images. 

So much information but not from a lack of trial and error.  I find that I usually end up taking close to 300 shots during a 2 hour session and if I am lucky I will be able to post process around 70 – 75 shots that I use as a proof for the client to choose from.  As well I tend to take more than one shot of the same posed shot just in case. 

Try some of these techniques and you will find that you might improve your photography or you might be able to incorporate some of these tips into your photography experiences.  I hope some of this rambling might help you to become better or to at least get a working knowledge of some of the things that work for me when I am doing my sessions.

Best Regards and Happy Shooting!